Hampi - The fascinating ruins of the 15th-century city of Vijayanagar

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.

– James Michener

Aerial view of Hampi (Source from wikipedia)

Hampi, the city of ruins and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a city of ruins that contains monuments that are breathtaking even when they’re past their prime. Once upon a time, it was the royal capital of the dominant Vijayanagara Empire. It is presently a ruined town with full of ancient palaces and forts – here’s more about this historical city.

Spread over an area more than 25 square kilometers (10 square miles), Hampi ruins is packed with giant temples, palaces, market streets, aquatic structures , fortifications and an abundance of other ancient monuments. It is a hub of many monuments, nearly 500 in number and each of which has a story to tell. It's a case of a wonderful past history, reaching the pinnacle of splendor and then faltering to a decline of non-maintenance and utter neglect. It is however, a thriving paradise for tourists.

There is a miraculous worth to the ruins of Hampi even after 650 years after the empire of Sri Krishna Devaraya has been forgotten into history. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has been making hard work to refurbish the structures in Hampi. Hampi is an abode of architecture and culture with lot of ancient temples and monuments.

The area of Hampi is surrounded by the passionate river Tungabhadra in north and other three sides by rough rocky granite stones. Hampi is a sanctified place for the Hindus as it is Pampakshethra - home of Pampa, the daughter of Lord Brahma and wedded to Shiva.

During ancient times, Hampi had been a thriving commercial center, with the trade of horses and gems. Wonderfully, it is said that diamonds were sold on the streets! At present, Hampi's economy is largely dependend on agricultural and mining. The area is highly rich in manganese and iron ores. With the status of a World Heritage site, tourism is another major factor of economy in Hampi.

Temple view in 1856 - photograph by Alexander Greenlaw

The site is significant historically and architecturally. The topography abounds with large stones which have been used to make statues of Hindu deities. The town was an important centre for trade, religion and art. Some of the famous travellers to have visited Hampi are - Pietro della Valle of Italy and Domingo Paes of Portugal.

Hampi got the status of being a ‘world heritage site’ in the year 1986 and since then, many efforts are being taken to restore the lost glory of this city. The Archaeological Survey of India continues to conduct excavations in the area, to discover additional artifacts and temples.

STORY BEHIND THE NAME OF HAMPI:

The name is derived from Pampa, which is the old name of the Tungabhadra River on whose banks the city is built. The name "Hampi" is an anglicized version of the Kannada Hampe (derived from Pampa). Over the years, it has also been referred to as Vijayanagara and Virupakshapura (from Virupaksha, the patron deity of the Vijayanagara rulers).

ETYMOLOGY:

The heritage town of Hampi depicts various historical evidences that go back to the pre historic times. Hampi also boasts of mythological history that revolves the Ramayana. It is believed that various episodes of Ram‘s life were spent in the town of Hampi that was then known as ‘Pampa Kshetra’. Hampi is identified with the historical Kishkindha, the Vanara's (monkey gods) kingdom mentioned in the Ramayana.

HISTORY:

Hampi, falls in the Viajayanagar area, which is known to have been ruled by four dynasties, namely – Sangama Dynasty, Saluva Dynasty, Tuluva Dynasty and Aravidu Dynasty.

The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1 CE. Hampi formed one of the core areas of the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1336 to 1565, when it was finally laid siege to by the Deccan Muslim confederacy.

According to legends, the Telugu princes Harihara and Bukkaraya (also known as Hakka and Bukka) noticed a strange happening during their hunting expedition. When they repeated their experience to their master, Vidyaranya, he advised them to make the place their capital. Then they construct Hampi in 1336 AD, which over the next couple of centuries grew into one of the largest Hindu empires in Indian history. Hampi was chosen because of its strategic location also, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra river on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on the other three sides.

By the 16th century, the greater metropolitan region of Vijayanagar, surrounded by seven lines of fortification, covered 650 sq km and had a population of about 500, 000. Vijayanagar’s busy bazaars were centres of international commerce, brimming with precious stones and merchants from faraway lands. This all came to a sudden end in 1565 when the Deccan sultans, in spite of their differences, joined together and defeated Rama Raya in the battle of Talikota.

This terrible defeat was followed by systematic looting for many long months. Ferishta, the late 16th Century Persian traveller describes the 1565 rout thus — "the river which ran near the field was dyed red with their blood. It is computed that 1,00,000 infidels were slain during the pursuit."

Robert Sewell in A Forgotten Empire says: "for five months the Mohammeddans with fire and sword, with crowbars and axes carried on day after day their work of destruction. Never perhaps in the history of the world has such havoc been wrought so suddenly, and reduced to ruins amid scenes of savage massacre and horrors beggaring description".

WHAT TO SEE AT HAMPI?

Hampi has various notable monuments and other attractions. Among the most notable are:

Virupaksha Bazaar :

The Virupaksha Bazaar is a long street, almost a kilometre long, close to the Virupaksha temple. The east end of the temple ends at the Matunga hill. Both the sides of the street are colourful and lined with old pavilions. Some of these pavilions are two storied. These were once home to many nobles and also, where once a market stood. Towards the west end, which is towards the entrance of the Virupaksha temple, there stand many sellers who have opened shop on the pavilions. The other side is occupied by poor people. Near the east end, there is a big bull, Nandi.

Virupaksha temple tower, Humpi (Source from wikipedia)

Virupaksha temple:

The Virupaksha temple is located at the foot of the hill called Hemakuta, is the core of the village of Hampi. This Virupaksha temple is normally the starting point for any Hampi expedition. The starting point is the Virupaksha temple with an imposing Gopuram at the entrance. This is one of the tallest gopuram (160 feets) and the Virupaksha temple believed to be one of the oldest active temples (from 7th century AD) in India. In all there are 3 gopurams built by different kings and was renovated in the sixteenth century by Krishnadevaraya.

The evidences from the earlier scripture testify that the form of Virupaksha, also called Pampapati, was the principal deity of this site and the Virupaksha temple at Hampi, was a place of pilgrimage and the most important temple of the area. However, Virupaksha was not originally the main god of Hampi.

There are some good paintings on the ceiling depicting scenes from Mahabharata. The temple was expanded with many additions made to it of mandapas, sub-shrines, pillared galleries, and so on, so that from a small shrine it developed into an extensive temple complex. The most important of the sub shrines are that of Goddess Pampa and Bhuvaneswari, consorts of lord Shiva, towards the north of the main shrine. These shrines are in fact much older than the rest of the grandiose structures in the compound. The short circular pillars and the doorways and the ceiling are richly carved.

A bit east along the cloister, you can spot a flight of leading to an underground chamber. This contains the shrine of Pataleswara, a form of lord Shiva. Further east is the shrine of the planetary deities. Images of the nine planetary deities (Nava Grahas) are arranged on an elevated platform.

Behind the main sanctum a flight of steps leads to the rear exit of the temple complex. Just before the exit on the right side you would find a dark chamber with a slit on the wall. The sunray pass through this slit forms an inverted shadow of the Raja Gopuram (main tower) on the western wall of the temple through a small hole, a kind of pinhole camera effect created with stonework.

Inverted shadow inside the temple

Recently, locals have spotted an inverted shadow of the tower housing Virupaksha temple’s sanctum sanctorum. The officials say it has not been seen in the last 800 years. The tower housing the sanctum sanctorum of Lord Virupaksha lies between the Saalu Mantapa and Raja Gopura (entrance) of the temple. The shadow of the tower, about 15 feet, falls on the floor of the Saalu Mantapa and is about the same height as the tower.

Further up the stairs you would come out of the temple campus. Near by is a shrine dedicated to the founder sage Vidyaranya.

Most of this locality is the residential area of the temple priests. If you trace narrow path along the outer wall towards south, you'll reach a small but interesting pond with pillared halls all around it. The shrines here are not under worship and the area somewhat deserted. You can see a number of crisscrossing aqueduct system mentioned earlier. Thick banana plantations and shrubs surround the location.

Virupaksha Temple Complex, Interior, Eastern Sanctuary (Photograph Alexander Greenlaw in 1856)

Back to the main temple, the giant north tower, called Kangiri Gopura, near the main sanctum leads to the temples sacred pond, the Manmantha Tank and a series of shrines.

Altogether you need at least one hours to see this temple complex. If you feel so hire a guide who would bump on you as you approach the main entrance tower (pay Rs50). You can witness the daily temple rituals and ceremonies in the mornings and evenings. Temple opens before the sunrise and closes in the night. Usually the sanctum is closed in the noon. So entry into the campus may not be possible at that point of time.

Hazara Rama temple wall

Hazara Rama temple complex :

The most beautiful sculptures are to be seen in the Hazaara Rama temple, said to contain 1,000 carvings of Rama and his life story. But the name implies "Hajaramu" — the Telugu word for entrance hall to palace. Said to be of the 15th Century, almost every inch of the hall is covered with truly exquisite carvings, well preserved. Each panel shows an episode in Rama's life. Four black stone pillars within too carry many sculpted images. This was also believed to be the private worship place of King and his family.

Krishna Temple Tank and Shrine, Hemakuta Hill
( Photograph  Alexander Greenlaw in 1856)

Krishna Temple Complex :

This temple is dedicated to lord Krishna, one of the ten incarnations of lord Vishnu. In Hindu mythology Krishna is known for his romantic encounters and political shrewdness! This temple was actually dedicated to the lord in his infant (crawling) form. This temple does not have any idol (which is now housed in a Chennai museum). The main hall spots a series of pillars carved with mythical rampant creatures. Opposite is the one of the many bazaars and from the position it is a great view.

Kodandarama temple :

Here large figures of Rama, Lakshmana and Sita were carved into the rockface, and the temple later built around it. The entire route to his temple is full of excavated sites. From this mercifully shady spot a lovely view of the placid Tungabhadra can be had.

The Kadalekalu Ganesha

Kadalekalu Ganesha :

This is a giant statue of the elephant headed Hindu god Ganesha. According to Hindu Mythology, Ganesha is the god who is responsible for removing obstructions! This 4.6 meters (14 feet) tall sculpture id carved in situ on the slops of the Hemakuta Hill. The tall slender granite pillars with many mythological themes carved decorated the front hall of this shrine. Kadalekalu means gram seed in local language. The shape of this statue was the reason for this witty namefor a god’s statue.

Sasivekalu Ganesha :

This again is a giant statue of Ganesha located inside an open pavilion. The potbelly of the god is in the shape of mustard seed and hence the name (Sasivekalu means of mustard seed in the local language). This four handed god is a fine example of the Vijayanagara’s artistic skills.

King's Balance -  Photograph  by Alexander Greenlaw in 1856

King's balance :

This is where the benevolent king weighed himself against gold and gems, to be distributed to the public. A beautiful work of art, it even shows the king and his two wives in miniature at the bottom left of the post. A shankham and chakram in stone were present atop the beam long ago, but are now missing.

Lord Lakshmi Narasimha

Lakshmi Narasimha :

This giant monolithic statue of the man-lion god is the largest icon in Hampi. Narasimha which is one of the ten avatars (incarnation) of lord Vishnu is depicted in a cross-legged seated position under a canopy carved like a seven-hooded snake (Adishesha). Most part of the Adishesha is destroyed. The 6.7 metre tall monolith statue is believed that the original image contained his consort Lakshmi sitting on his lap. This image was destroyed during the enemy invasion. Currently only a hand of the goddess resting on his waist can be seen.

This was made in 1528 during the reign of Krishnadevaraya and it was carved from a single boulder.

Badava linga

Badava Linga :

Close by Lakshmi Narasimha, there is a three metre high stone linga, beautifully polished. This is the Shiva linga called as Badavi Linga, also known as Jala Kanteshwara since there is a water canal running through the temple and is the lingam is always surrounded by water. The legend says that a some poor localite of Hampi of that time vowed to build a Shiva Linga if his or her luck turned and it.

Queen's palace :

This structure belongs to the royal area of the capital. This was supposed to be the resting place for the queen during the summer months, this looks like an indoor aquatic complex. A large veranda with protruding balconies all around faces the central pool. This is one of the typical example of the Indo-Islamic hybrid architecture.The palace in itself has been destroyed by what is left is the basement which indicates how massive the palace would have been. There is one palace which was surrounded by water – now of course it is dry.

Lotus Mahal (Source from wikipedia)

Lotus Mahal :

The third building is the Lotus Mahal which is still standing and has not been damaged. This ornate structure was probably used by the military chief as his office or the queens of the palace as a pleasure pavilion. It is said that the pillars of the palace are hollow which allows water to run through and thus keeping inmates of the building cool. Unfortunately the room leading to Queen's chamber has been locked to prevent vandals from scribbling on the walls. The pavilion spots Islamic architecture style arches and the roofs and base typical of Hindu temples. There are also three impressive watch towers and the entire palace area is cordoned off by walls.

Elephant Stables :

That was the shelter for the royal elephants. This building is in good condition. It consists of 11 large stable and were used only for the ceremonial elephants. This long structure is made of a series of chambers with domical roofs. Each chamber is big enough to accommodate two elephants. The central hall with an elaborated tower probably was used by the ceremonial band troop. On the side of this are the quarters for the Mahouts of the elephant.

There is a Matanga hill close by and if you manage to get on top you will have a magnificent view of Hampi.

Royal Enclosure :

The seat of the erstwhile kings, this is a fortified campus. The complex is surrounded by walls and inside is a huge platform (Mahanavami Dibba or Dasera Dibba) which was used to watch the annual parade of imperial majesty and military might. This was built by Krishnadeva Raya after his conquest of Orissa. Full of beautiful carvings of dancers, soldiers, horses and elephants on the walls of a huge raised platform. On one end of the complex are the ruins of what was once the court. This complex also has aqueducts that are in good condition. The area is packed
with numerous palace bases, underground temple, aquatic structures and the likes. Foreigners like Arab horsetraders, Chinese visitors with pigtails and conical hats are depicted here, showing the immense reach of the empire.

There is also a Pushkarani – a stepped tank which is definitely impressive. These used to run all across the city to provide water to the citizens.

Stepped tank (Source from wikipedia)

Stepped Tank :

The stepped tank of 15th century within the Royal Enclosure of Hampi is one of the very ornate and proportionate in terms of design. It has five distinct tiers, each fitted with symmetric steps set in a pleasing pattern. It has five distinct tiers, each fitted with steps set in a pleasing pattern.This square tank built using black chlorite schist measures about 22 meters in square. It is 7 meters deep.

The mason marks on each step showing the exact position and direction in which it had to be placed, tells us that the layout of the tank was well designed. The stones were given the desired shape in some other place and later assembled here. Practically every stone is earmarked for this purpose and some bears even 'sketches' by its architects. This tank was fed by aqueducts which brought the water from the river to the tanks. The remains of aqueducts used for supplying water have been found in a number of locations near Hampi.

The purpose of this tank mostly could have been for religious ceremonies by the royals.

The stone chariot at Vittala complex (Source from wikipedia)

Vittala Temple Complex :

This is perhaps the most famous and well-known among the ruins of Hampi. The road leading to the temple is lined up by the old market (which was as the guide explained the market for the rich and famous). The environment of this temple is packed with numerous smaller but ornate temples and a wide chariot street of the temple.The temple tower is a lovely deep red, in brick and mortar, and is broken in a most striking manner. The granite base is intact, and has withstood the constant ravages of time. The remnant tower is adorned with fabulous stucco figures. Built by Krishnadeva Raya in the early 16th Century, the temple mandapam stands on a rectangular courtyard 152 m by 94 m. Fifty-six granite pillars carry fine artistic works on them.

There are other buildings supposedly as residence for VIP guest from other nations. All the mandapams or pavilions in this complex have lovely delicate friezes of dancers and musicians — all beautifully dressed, and with elaborate hairstyles. In one frieze the hairstyle is a huge bun, easily touched by the dancer's elevated foot! Sadly, many of these sculptures have the noses chopped off, as they are all within arm's reach. This temple is a UNESCO world heritage monument for the musical pillars and the stone chariot that it houses.

Vittala temple gopuram -
See this Dipa stamba (lamp post) in this picture was demolish later period
Photograph by Alexander Greenlaw in 1856

The Stone Chariot :

The iconic stone chariot in the vicinity of this temple complex is a symbol of Karnataka Tourism. This chariot is the first monument that you come across in the Vittala temple complex and is indeed very impressive.This is not a chariot ,as the name suggests, rather a shrine built like a chariot. This is located inside the Vittala Temple campus.

Built by King Krishna Deva Raya in 1563 AD, the chariot was used for taking out traditional procession of the idols of gods. Though the chariot is not resting on it, the four giant wheels attached mimic the real life ones complete with the axis shafts and even the brakes. A series of concentric floral motifs decorate the wheels. It appears from the marks on the platform, where the wheels rest, the wheels were free to move around the axis.

In mythology Lord Vittala is an aspect of Lord Vishnu. Garuda (lord of eagles) is the vehicle (mount) of Lord Vishnu. The Stone Chariot once contained the icon on Garuda, though the shrine is empty now. This shrine is in the axis of the massive Vittala Temple and faces the sanctum of Vittala Temple.

The chariot is built on a rectangular platform of a feet or so high. All around this base platform is carved with mythical battle scenes. It may appear to you as a monolithic structure. In reality this stone shrine was built with many giant granite blocks. The joints are smartly hidden in the carvings and other decorative features that adorn the Stone Chariot. You can still see the remains of the painting on the carvings of the chariot. Probably because it was relatively protected from the natural weather elements, the undercarriage of the chariot spots one of the best preserved specimens of this kind of paintings. It is believed the whole of the Vittala Temple’s sculptures were once beautifully painted in similar fashion using the minerals as medium.

In front of the chariot two elephants are positioned as if they are pulling the chariot. In fact these stone elephants were brought from elsewhere and positioned here at a later stage. Originally two horses were carved in that position. The tails and the rear legs of the horses can be still seen just behind these elephant sculptures. A broken stone ladder once gave access to the sanctum is kept between the elephants. You can still spot the marks on the floor and the doorsill where once the ladder stood.

Stone Chariot picture, Yo can see the gopuram on top of the Chariot
Photograph  by Alexander Greenlaw in 1856 

The large stone wheels actually revolve. Ancient photographs taken in 1856 by the Englishman Alexander Greenlaw show a brick and mortar tower on top of the chariot, now missing. I read somewhere that the gopuram was dismantled by a British officer since it was dilapidated and it's weight was causing the chariot to crack.

The Musical pillars :

Inside the temple, a set of pillars used as ‘musical pillars,’ resonates when tapped. These pillars were used as musical instruments at that time. Each pillar is known to produce a distinct musical note when you knock it with your fingers or a slender stick. Forty-six musical stone pillars along the corners are a special feature here. Each of the pillars that support the roof of the main temple is supported by a pillar representing a musical instrument and is constructed as 7 minor pillars arranged around a main pillar. These 7 pillars, when struck, emanate the 7 notes from the representative instrument, varying in sound quality based on whether it represents a wind, string or percussion instrument.

Vittala temple complex in 1856 -  Photograph by Alexander Greenlaw

This mandapa was the dancing platform, a moving art form surrounded by sculpted art. The music performed from these during the festivals was audible up to almost 10km diameter of the temple. These pillars are still functional. However, large sculptures of musicians stand along the pillars, many vandalised. This is another example of technological and architectural expertise people of Hampi had at that time.

Over enthusiastic visitors inadvertently damaged the pillars by knocking on them with stones and stout sticks. There is a sign that said - “Do Not Touch The Pillars” - to prevent further damage to the structure.

Pattabhirama Temple :

This is a sprawling temple campus dedicated to lord Rama. The pillared halls are of special note. Tall mythical beats carved in the shape of a series of pillars.

Riverside trek Path :

This is the path that connects the ancient Hampi Bazaar to the Vittala temple. Numerous shrines, carved artifacts, ruins of ancient structures are scattered all around along this path. For example the 1008 and 1008 Siva lings carved in a matrix like pattern on a sheet of boulder at the river shore.

Hemakuta Hill Temples :

This hill is basically an expanse of rocky sheets with interesting undulations. A large number of pre Vijayanagara (the empire) temples of note are located in this hilltop dating to 1398. The highlights are the sets of triple chambered temples with its pyramid like granite roofs. Shrines also exist from the Ninth Century, making them perhaps the oldest in Hampi. This ancient hill has mythological associations with the Ramayana, as Kishkinda. That explains the density of such temples on this hill.

There’s much to be seen in Hampi than what’s listed here. Every stone has a story to tell.

TRAVEL WITHIN HAMPI:

You can hire a driver-guide as a package or hire ‘spot guides’ locally at each major attraction. If you need assistance to hire a trained guide for full-day / half-day, contact the tourist info center in Hampi Bazaar near the Virupaksha Temple.

Travelling around Hampi can be fun, as the region is steeped in history and travelling around the place can be quite interesting. You can move around Hampi through bikes, motorcycles, cars. These are the various types of internal travel options present in the ancient capital of Hampi. There are no night fares for any mode of transport.

Taxi:

Renting a car can be more costly and can cost you around Rs 800-1000.

Auto Rickshaw:

You can also opt for rickshaws, in case you want to beat the heat. Rickshaw rates are fixed and slightly negotiable, so make sure that you get the best out of the bargain. The charges are normally around Rs 400-500 per day. You can also hire a guide to accompany you long the trip and this may cost you extra.

Rented Bicycle:

You can rent a bicycle in Hampi in order to travel up and down the hill.

Rented Motorcycle:

You can also rent out a motorcycle while on a trip in Hampi as this mode of travel can give you more freedom. You can rent out 100cc and 150cc vehicles for charges of around Rs 200 to 250 per day. This may be slightly more expensive, but you can ride through the expanse of Hampi and take in the sheer magic of the place.

ACCOMMODATION:

Hampi itself does not have many hotels. However, you can find several lodges, guest houses and rooms for rent. Many visitors prefer to make Hospet as their base for several reasons. Most importantly, the availability of air conditioned rooms in many of the hotels available easily and at a reasonable price. Some of these hotels also offer in-house internet facilities, couple of chairs, a writing table, mosquito net, function halls, multi-cuisine restaurants with separate veg and non-veg sections.

HOW TO REACH HAMPI?

The primary connectivity to Hampi is by road. Rail connection comes second and the air link is a third option. Hampi is situated on the banks of the Tungabhadra river. It is 353 km from Bangalore and 74 km away from Bellary.

By Road:

While some buses from Goa and Bengaluru will drop you at the bus stand in Hampi Bazaar, you have to go to Hospet to catch most buses out.

Hospet is the gateway town near Hampi, can be reached by bus, car or by train. Typically it’s an overnight journey from Bangalore, Hyderabad or Goa. From Hospet catch the local bus or hire a taxi/auto-rickshaw, in about 30 minutes you would be dropped at the centre of Hampi. The local bus service to Hampi available from here. The first bus from Hospet is at 6.30am; the last one back leaves Hampi Bazaar at 8.30pm.

By Rail:

Hospet is the nearest railway station. This is the main gateway to Hampi. Hospet is connected by rail to the other Indian cities towns Bangalore, Bijapur, Hubli , Guntakal, Hyderabad and Vasco Da Gama (Goa).

By Air:

The nearest airport to Hampi is Bellary about 60km. Other airports are Belgaum (about 190 km) and Bangalore (about 350 km).