Wandering re-establishes the original harmony which once existed between man and the universe.
-Anatole France
The historic town of Lepakshi, located in Anantpur District of Andhra Pradesh particularly famous for its Vijaynagar style temples, holds a mirror to the past. The handicrafts of Lepakshi are also quite popular among women all over the country.
It is 15 km east of Hindupur and about 120 km north of Bangalore. It’s a revitalizing trip for those who believe in heritage sites, for those who marvel at the art of our ancestors, and those willing to get away from the routine multiple-destination tourist routes.
ETYMOLOGY:
This gem of a temple is so beautiful that you have to be made of stone to not be awed by it. When Sita was abducted by Ravana, the mythical bird Jatayu fought with Ravana right here. Ravana cut off its wing then Jatayu lay here, injured. When Sri Rama reached the spot, he saw the bird and said compassionately, “le, pakshi” – ‘rise, bird in Telugu. Then the bird rose. Hence the name Lepakshi.
ABOUT TEMPLE:
At the height of its fame during the 16th century, Lepakshi was a centre of pilgrimage and trade.
This temple is a notable example of the Vijayanagar style of architecture. The temple of Veerabhadra is mention in 'Skandapurana' as one of the 108 important 'Shaiva Kshetras'.
The temple is built on a low, rocky hill called Kurmasailam - meaning tortoise hill in Telugu, after the shape of the hill.
Legend has it that the temple of Veerabhadra was constructed by Saint 'Agastya' himself. But as per history it was built in the mid-16th century by brothers Viranna and Virupanna, Vijayanagara governors of Penukonda. Virupanna, as the king's treasurer, had vast sums at his disposal, which he spent on making Lepakshi a magnificent temple.
The temple’s main deity is Veerabhadra, the fiery god created by Shiva in his rage after the Daksha Yagna and the immolation of Parvathi.
The temple has a huge complex where three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu and Lord Virabhadra. Lord Virabhadra is the wrathful manifestation form of Shiva, the patron deity of the Nayak rulers.
On the walls of this temple, there are several stories like Mahabharata, Ramayana etc are sculpted. Also on the roof there are so many beautiful paintings have been coloured using vegetable & natural dyes.
WHAT TO SEE:
Nandhi:
A huge Nandi (bull) made out of single granite stone near the Veerabhadra temple carved out of a monolith is yet another remarkable feature. At 27ft in length and 15ft in height, it is a colossal structure, reputedly India’s biggest monolithic Nandi.
The Nandi positioned as one foot has waiting to get up, ears open – for the lord Shiva has to call the bull, so it is waiting to serve him.
Naga-lingam:
Behind the temple, it is a massive Naga (snake) with three coils and seven hoods. It forms a sheltering canopy over a black granite Shivalingam. It’s reckoned by many as the largest Nagalinga in India.
It is said that during lunch break, a group of brothers waited outside the kitchen at this spot, as their mother hurried to cook their meal. Not wanting to waste their time waiting, they built this in the 30 minutes that it took their mother to prepare the food.
Chaviti Vinayakudu:
Once you reach the temple’s outer enclosure, you will see a mammoth Ganesha (Vinayaka) - hewn in stone and leaning against a rock.
Hanging Pillar:
This temple also famed Hanging Column or Pillar . The pillar which does not rest on the ground fully, one can passed the twig slowly under the pillar. From one end to the other!
There are about 70 pillars at this fabulous 16th century temple. This one is the best known and a tribute to the engineering genius of ancient and medieval India’s temple builders. However, it is a bit dislodged from its original position - it is said that during the British era, a British engineer tried to move it in an unsuccessful attempt to uncover the secret of its support. In doing so, they moved it slightly. That led to many other pillars and beams around re-aligning themselves. Scared that the temple would collapse, they let it be and there were no further investigations. It was obvious to them that this was a very crucial column, probably one of the main supports.
Kalyana mandapam:
The Kalyana Mandapam or marriage hall is another hall known for its artistic beauty. Among the many eye-catchers in this temple, the frieze of geese with lotus stalks in their beaks stands out.
The marriage hall is not completed. Had Virupanna lift to complete this marriage hall, it would had been the most celebrate of its kind.
Mural Paintings:
It contains some of the finest sculpture of the period and has the earliest preserved cycle of mural paintings in the Vijayanagara style. It is said that the 24 by 14 ft fresco of Veerabhadra on the ceiling before the main sanctum sanctorum is the largest in India of any single figure. The rest of the frescoes are also beautiful and show an impressive attention to detail with colours strikingly contrasted - black limework against an orange-red background with some green, white, black, and shades of ochre-gold and brown mostly applied to a stucco surface specially treated with lime.
Sita Amma Padam:
There is a large footprint on the stone in the temple compound supposedly Godess Durga. Some call it 'Durga Paadam' or 'Seethamma paadam'.
There is intresting story about this footprint. When godess Sita devi was taken over by Ravana, Jataayu came to save Sita and fought with Ravana. While Jataayu was wounded, Sita kept her feet on the ground and water started to flow from that place. This water saved Jataayu till Lord Rama came. Local people say, water will never get dried in this place throughout the year.
Eyes of Virupanna:
One more famous spot in this temple is "Eyes of Virupanna". As the history says, Virupanna use money from treasury to use build this massive temple when the Vijayanagara king away. When the king retuned, he find his treasury is empty without his permission and the king ordered to make him blind. When Virupanna heard this, he decided to carry out the task himself and plucked his own eyes and throw at this temple walls. Till date one can find those blood scars on the western wall of the inner enclosure.
If you have time, check out nearby Dharmavaram, the well-known silk weaving centre, and Hindupur and surrounding villages where, elegant cottons are woven.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
Summers are uncomfortably hot and humid. The best time therefore to visit Lepakshi is between November and March.
HOW TO REACH:
By Road:
Lepakshi is 480 km from Hyderabad. It is 120 km from Bangalore. On the way to Hyderabad from Bangalore, you have to take about 16kms on the left to reach Lepakshi from Hindupur.
By Rail:
The nearest railway station in Hindupur. Autos and buses ply to Lepakshi from here.
By Air:
Bangalore International Airport is the nearest airport.
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